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French Kitchens - In praise of "proper butter".

  • Mar 5
  • 4 min read

There was a time, and I might be showing my age here, when butter became the subject of a deliberate, fatty witch-hunt. It seemed to be a hearing behind closed doors, for us butter lovers. It was accused and found guilty of shortening our lives and making us fat. The Western world fell under a wave of nutritional anxiety. Butter, which had been besties with bread for such a long time, was suddenly recast as the insidious villain of the kitchen. Into its golden yellow slippers, stepped a wicked Step-Mother called Margarine - her suitcase was a plastic tub marked "progress".

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