French Kitchens - In praise of "proper butter".
- Mar 5
- 4 min read

There was a time, and I might be showing my age here, when butter became the subject of a deliberate, fatty witch-hunt. It seemed to be a hearing behind closed doors, for us butter lovers. It was accused and found guilty of shortening our lives and making us fat. The Western world fell under a wave of nutritional anxiety. Butter, which had been besties with bread for such a long time, was suddenly recast as the insidious villain of the kitchen. Into its golden yellow slippers, stepped a wicked Step-Mother called Margarine - her suitcase was a plastic tub marked "progress".



